While Murrumbateman is technically in NSW, being just 40 minutes out of Canberra makes it part of the Canberra wine region, so we have stored this under the ACT tag. It’s a young wine region - the first grapes were planted in 1971 - that specialises in Rieslings and Shiraz.
You won’t find the glitz and glam of the Hunter or Mornington Peninsula, but to use an old cliche this is a tiny town with a big heart. You will be warmly welcomed into each Cellar Door (which is sometimes their own back shed!) and be given a highly engaging and attentive level of service.
This is the trip to make if you want to fine-tune your wine knowledge through intimate service and explore a “hidden gem”. Don’t come here for pampered accomodation and a fashion parade. This is a countryside stroll with passionate winemakers who work together to promote the region.
Finally, if you’re an AFL fan you’re in for a treat! “Oh, you’re the Demons fan!” became the official greeting for me everywhere once one winemaker established the connection. Word travels fast in Murrumbateman…
Here is the list of the wineries I visited, in what order (logistically sensible of course!) and my own thoughts.
All Rounders:
- Klonakilla
- Dionysus
For the Wine:
- Gallaghers
- Helm Wines
- Vintner's Daughter
For the Cellar Door:
- Granitevale
- Shaw
Cellar Door
A large indoor area for tasting with spaced out tables (this was during COVID), there is also outdoor seating with umbrellas.
Wines
The growers here focus on French-style winemaking.
Service
We felt for the service staff as this was during COVID, they were limited in staff number allowances and plenty of people wanted serving - they did an excellent job when they could get round to us and told the story well of the owner’s French origins.
Good For
Outdoor drink, groups
Favourite Drops
Pinot Noir
A Cellar Door with ample indoor and outdoor seating. The size + COVID distancing meant slow service as the poor host raced from table to table. However once being served we were provided informative stories about the owner’s French origins and winemaking style.
A good spot to enjoy a drink in the sun outdoors. At the time I didn’t love the wines, but perhaps this was just the ‘first winery curse’. I ended up with a bottle of Pinot Noir which I thoroughly enjoyed a few weeks later.
Cellar Door
The most grandiose Door we went to with a professional vibe. You are greeted before being seated and enjoy a great outlook in this more tranquil winery.
Wines
Pride themselves on cool-climate Reds, particularly Shiraz and their Merlot.
Service
Down to earth, friendly, they put you at ease while giving you the high-end experience.
Good For
Setting, service, groups (big/small), photos
Favourite Drops
Shiraz
Shaw had the most grandiose Cellar Door in the region and a professional vibe - you’re greeted at the door then seated at quality tables, comfy chairs with a lovely outlook.
The service was down to earth, putting us at ease to enjoy pleasant wines in a beautiful setting. The wines are pricey however it's worth a visit to get that ‘high-end feeling’ we all secretly love about a trip to wine country.
Cellar Door
The real Murrumbateman, you get to sit in a room off Greg Gallagher’s own home. It’s like stumbling over to an old friend's house for a drink and they’ve set up a hobby room!
Wines
Consistently excellent across the tasting board, nailing reds, whites and sparkling.
Service
A passionate storyteller and host, given you’re in their home the service has that genuine authenticity.
Good For
Service, wine appreciators, story, homely
Favourite Drops
Sparkling Shiraz, Merlot, Riesling
The Little Things
Greg is a big St Kilda fan who’s moustache gave off Darryl Kerrigan vibes.
Our first taste of the ‘real Murrumbateman’ with the Cellar Door being off Greg Gallagher’s own home where we were warmly welcomed with undivided attention. A passionate storyteller and host, each flavoursome varietal was explained at length over a generous serving size.
Gallaghers is where I discovered how much the Murrumbateman community love their AFL, and conversely where word got out how much I love mine! Greg supports St Kilda FYI. He also has a cracking moustache that is reminiscent of Darryl Kerrigan’s in ‘The Castle’.
Cellar Door
Fantastic understated spot, very small and intimate (room for large groups out back), the small tasting room is the old 1888 Toual Public School House
Wines
True masters of the Riesling craft, will put to bed any anti-Riesling sentiment.
Service
Very personal, passionate and intimate. Banter between Ken and Judith entertains while they educate on the wines - fitting given the setting!
Good For
Wine appreciators, Riesling lovers, events, story, learning
Favourite Drops
Riesling (Half Dry), Riesling (Classic Dry)
The Little Things
The ‘Wall of Visitors’ is excellent - snaps of Ken + Judith with celebrities and landmarks with bottles of Helm wines.
Helm are Riesling connoisseurs and proud of it. A fantastic understated Cellar Door where you can get an intimate experience inside or a larger-scale experience in the function space.
Ken and Judith are energetic and humorous hosts who give a full education experience - fitting as the tasting room is the 1888 Toual Public School House. They will also put to bed any existing ‘anti-Riesling sentiment’ which can be found in relatively new wine appreciators.
The final step to truly complete Helm winery is the Wall of Visitors, a photograph wall with snaps of Ken and Judith with a range of celebrities and at famous landmarks with a bottle of Helm wines. My favourite is a shot of Ken with a rather jolly-looking Matt Preston (Masterchef!)
Cellar Door
Genuine blend of high-end and casual, suitable for groups big and small. A sun-lit room well finished and furnished, with a great wrapping outdoor area for a drink in the sun.
Wines
Their red wines put Murrumbateman on the map - really peppery and fruitful. Their Shiraz Viognier is highly touted amongst wine circles.
Service
This is a landmark winery (first grapes in Murrumbateman were planted here) so it gets busy, but service is friendly and attentive. A seat at the bar is best for the full service experience.
Good For
Groups, outdoor drink, story, photos, wine appreciators
Favourite Drops
Shiraz (Hilltops)
The Little Things
This is where the first grapes were planted in Murrumbateman, so they essentially put the region on the map.
The winery where it all started; John Kirk planted the first grapes here in 1971 and now the region - and in particular Clonakilla - arguably make some of the best wines in the country.
Here you will find a picturesque Cellar Door perfect for groups big and small. There is outdoor seating or else a sun-lit room if visiting in the cold winters. It's a busier winery so the servers have plenty to do, but tell the story while pouring tasty drops.
Great for an afternoon tipple in the sun or a settler by the fireplace. Try the highly regarded Shiraz Viognier and enjoy being amid the winery that put Murrumbateman on the map.
Cellar Door
A smaller boutique Door with a peaceful verandah overlooking their prized grapes. Has a homely feel, as if popping over to a friends place for a chat over an afternoon tippler.
Wines
Steph Helm’s winery, daughter of Ken + Judith Helm (Helm wines), has been winning awards since just 14! Makes beautiful reds like Pinot Noir and delicate Syrah.
Service
The service is as calming as the cellar door while providing real insights into wine and the winemaking process.
Good For
Outdoor drink, story, wine appreciators, setting
Favourite Drops
Syrah
The Little Things
The fortified wines have beautiful wax-dripping over the corks. Worth buying just for that alone let alone the delicious substance inside!
This winery has a captivating narrative as it was established by Stephanie Helm - the daughter of Ken and Judith of Helm Wines. Turns out Stephanie was quite the prodigy, winning awards for winemaking at only 14, well before she could legally drink!
This is a smaller, boutique Cellar Door with a tranquil balcony out the back overlooking the prized vines. The wines are on the pricier side, but don’t let that deter you as you get what you pay for in every way.
Cellar Door
Not really a Cellar Door, but a buzzing indoor room opens into a very large outdoor ground where you can move tables in/out of the sun to enjoy a meal with a flight of wine.
Wines
They sell wine by the glass and also tasting flights to enjoy with lunch.
Service
At-bar service, order and they bring it out to you.
Good For
Lunch, events, large groups, outdoor drink, instagram, corporate, family friendly
Favourite Drops
Loved their sparkling
Four Winds is more of a lunch spot but worth a mention. The venue is a hive of buzzing activity where you can order a flight of wines inside and ideally a wood fired pizza or 3 to pair it with.
The large outdoor grounds offer ample, movable seating in a relaxed atmosphere with space for kids to roam while the adults indulge.
I particularly liked the sparkling and found Four Winds a great spot for a breather in-between wineries.
Cellar Door
This feels like a visit to your favourite casual cafe/diner while on holiday. It’s warm and inviting, providing wine and delicious baked treats.
Wines
Traditional Aussie varietals and a branch into Tempranillo and Gamay.
Service
Michael and Wendy are a great one-two punch combination. A great mix of knowledge sharing with amusing anecdotes to add to the relaxed vibe. Michael is an Adelaide Crows fan, Wendy seems to dominate the locals tipping comp!
Good For
Learning, service, story
Favourite Drops
Sauvignon Blanc
The Little Things
The tasting notes are phenomenal - Michael’s are written with a sommeliers pen before Wendy comes in with a cutting summary for the average punter. Well written, amusing and a cracking Yin & Yang combo. There is also a sculpture garden which shows off the work of local artists, equipped with picnic tables and space for blankets.
A stroll up the drive from Four Winds gets you to Dionysus. I really loved this winery for various reasons.
The setting provides a laid-back vibe, as if you’re visiting the local cafe for a weekday bite (or drink). The service here is warm, friendly and informative. Enjoy an excellent conversation over a range of traditional Aussie varietals and a branch into Tempranillo and Gamay.
My favourite part of Dionysus were the Tasting Notes. Each drop is given a Yin & Yang rundown from both founders Michael and Wendy. Michael provides the “professionalism” and wine jargon, before Wendy comes in with the raw wit and cut-to-the-chase colloquialism.
Michael is a big Adelaide Crows supporter, Wendy at time of visit was leading the local tipping comp by quite a margin and I hope she went on to win it (2020)!
Cellar Door
My favourite of the region - you’re invited into the family home to sit on comfy sofas with the fire burning. It feels like a hobby room with all the curious collections to keep your imagination intrigued during tastings.
Wines
Traditional wines bursting with flavour and non-traditional styles that are truly unique to Granitevale. Pride themselves on their fortified wines.
Service
Greg and Leigh are passionate and attentive in their service. They’ll have a drink with you and share the creativity behind their drops. Greg is a Gold-tier Melbourne Demons fan (good taste!)
Good For
Wine appreciators, education, story, interior, homely, wine appreciators, events, unique/abstract varietals
Favourite Drops
Cabernet Sauvignon, White Ice (sticky), Sparkling Shiraz
The Little Things
This cozy cavern is a resting place for quirky trinkets banished from the main house, enthralling the wandering eye in between sips and stories. Also a large TV with the footy playing during the season, so a great spot to watch matches.
Off the beaten track and into the area’s heartland you’ll find my favourite Cellar Door - a must visit for a drink, a yarn and even a game of footy.
You’ll be served on comfy sofas in a wine-drinking wonderland. The cozy cavern is a sort of resting place for quirky trinkets banished from the main house, enthralling the wandering eye in between sips and stories.
Greg and Leigh blend passion and innovation, providing traditional wines bursting with flavour and non-traditional styles that are truly unique to Granitevale. The creativity and stories behind their dessert wines will captivate even non-fortified drinkers.
I end this by stating I could be a touch bias; Greg is a Gold-Tier member of the mighty Melbourne Demons whose own fandom made my own feel fair-weathered. You should find all the above rings true regardless of which team (or code) you follow.
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